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Dandies: Fashion and Finesse in Art and Culture considers the visual languages, politics, and poetics of personal appearance. Dandyism has been most closely associated with influential caucasian Western men-about-town, epitomized by the 19th century style-setting of Oscar Wilde and by Tom Wolfe's white suits. The essays collected here, however, examine the spectacle and workings of dandyism to reveal that these were not the only dandies. On the contrary, art historians, literary and cultural historians, and anthropologists identify unrecognized dandies flourishing among early 19th century Nat
CDL --- 391 --- Dandies --- Fashion --- Men's clothing --- History. --- Men''s clothing - History. --- Anthropology --- Social Sciences --- Manners & Customs --- Men --- Men's apparel --- Men's wear --- Menswear --- Clothing and dress --- Men's products --- Beaux --- Dudes --- Fops --- History --- Clothing
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Beauty, Personal --- Masculine beauty (Aesthetics) --- Men's clothing --- Beauté corporelle --- Beauté masculine (Esthétique) --- Vêtements d'homme --- History. --- Histoire --- History --- Apparence individuelle --- Coquetterie --- Hommes --- Costume --- Beauté corporelle --- Beauté masculine (Esthétique) --- Vêtements d'homme --- Histoire. --- Men's clothing - History --- Beauty, Personal - History --- Masculine beauty (Aesthetics) - History
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Dress was equally showy for men and women until the late eighteenth century, when natural simplicity and understatement on the model of the Classical Greek nude became fashionable, but for men's clothes only. After that, obvious sexual display in dress was left to women - and it came to seem both shameful and esthetically inferior by comparison, despite its variety. Hollander shows how modern women adapted men's tailoring to their richer scheme of display, making suits do for women what they had long done for men: show their sexuality to be central, serious and interesting, rather than irrational, shallow and dangerous. She shows us, too, how men - now that women have adopted every element of male style - are recapturing the color and ornament they long found taboo, without giving up the potent beauty of tailored suits, which women have made universal.
CDL --- 391 --- History --- Sociology of culture --- Sexology --- History of civilization --- Sociology of the family. Sociology of sexuality --- Costume --- Social aspects --- Men's clothing --- Men's clothing - History. --- Costume - History. --- Sociologie van de cultuur --- Sociologie van het gezin. Sociologie van de seksualiteit --- Seksuologie --- Cultuurgeschiedenis --- Geschiedenis --- Clothing and dress --- Men --- Men's apparel --- Men's wear --- Menswear --- Society and clothing --- Clothing --- Men's products --- Images of men --- Fashion --- Sexuality --- Images of women --- Book --- Sex differences
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Le dandysme est méconnu. On le confond avec la simple élégance, alors qu’il est bien plus : mode d’être, état d’esprit, style de vie, esthétique… C’est une philosophie de l’art en même temps qu’une esthétisation de soi. Il se veut également l’expression, au nom de la beauté, d’une immense liberté liée à une forme de révolte individuelle contre la société, son conformisme et son conservatisme, mais aussi contre le destin. Le dandy, comme l’écrit Albert Camus, « ne se maintient que dans le défi ». Plus encore qu’une œuvre d’art vivante – pour reprendre l’aphorisme d’Oscar Wilde –, il est une utopie incarnée ! Mais le dandysme, c’est aussi un grand courant intellectuel, philosophique et artistique dont l’influence, prépondérante au XIXe et au XXe siècle, est loin de s’estomper aujourd’hui. Car l’esprit dandy touche toutes les formes d’art, des plus classiques aux plus contemporaines : aussi bien la littérature, la poésie et le théâtre que la peinture, la musique, la danse, la photographie et le cinéma… C’est cette passionnante histoire que nous raconte Daniel Salvatore Schiffer : de Lord Brummell à David Bowie, en passant par Byron, Wilde, Baudelaire, Kierkegaard, George Sand, Proust, Diaghilev, Cocteau, Tzara, Greta Garbo, Coco Chanel, Dior, Mishima, Visconti, Warhol, Gainsbourg, Lagerfeld ou Lady Gaga, sans oublier les écrivains décadents, les peintres symbolistes et préraphaélites… et beaucoup d’autres. Une promenade fascinante sur les traces de l’un des plus riches courants de la pensée européenne et de l’art occidental, magnifiquement illustrée de portraits, tableaux et photographies.
Dandies --- Men's clothing --- Dandys --- Vêtements d'homme --- dandyisme --- ijdelheid --- geschiedenis --- mode --- Brummell, George Bryan --- Barbey d'Aurevilly, Jules --- Baudelaire, Charles --- Wilde, Oscar --- Warhol, Andy --- Vêtements d'homme --- Dandyism --- Dandies in literature --- Lifestyles --- History --- dandy, fat --- Dandies - History --- Dandyism - History --- Men's clothing - History --- dandy, fat. --- ijdelheid. --- geschiedenis. --- mode. --- Brummell, George Bryan. --- Barbey d'Aurevilly, Jules. --- Baudelaire, Charles. --- Wilde, Oscar. --- Warhol, Andy. --- Gailliard, Jean-Jacques. --- Marinetti, Filippo Tommaso.
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