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Fluid dynamics --- Ocean waves --- Water waves --- Mathematical models. --- 532.59 --- 551.466 --- 627.223 --- 627.223 Sea currents and tides --- Sea currents and tides --- 551.466 Sea waves and tides --- Sea waves and tides --- 532.59 Wave motion --- Wave motion --- Breakers --- Sea waves --- Surf --- Swell --- Oceanography --- Mathematical models
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This book focuses on: (1) the physics of the fundamental dynamics of fluids and of semi-immersed Lagrangian solid bodies that are responding to wave-induced loads; (2) the scaling of dimensional equations and boundary value problems in order to determine a small dimensionless parameter ε that may be applied to linearize the equations and the boundary value problems so as to obtain a linear system; (3) the replacement of differential and integral calculus with algebraic equations that require only algebraic substitutions instead of differentiations and integrations; and (4) the importance of c
Fluid dynamics --- Ocean waves --- Water waves --- Breakers --- Sea waves --- Surf --- Swell --- Oceanography --- Mathematical models.
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