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Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters describes the observation, analysis and prediction of wind-generated waves in the open ocean, in shelf seas, and in coastal regions with islands, channels, tidal flats and inlets, estuaries, fjords and lagoons. Most of this richly illustrated book is devoted to the physical aspects of waves. After introducing observation techniques for waves, both at sea and from space, the book defines the parameters that characterise waves. Using basic statistical and physical concepts, the author discusses the prediction of waves in oceanic and coastal waters, first in terms of generalised observations, and then in terms of the more theoretical framework of the spectral energy balance. He gives the results of established theories and also the direction in which research is developing. The book ends with a description of SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore), the preferred computer model of the engineering community for predicting waves in coastal waters.

Water waves --- Ocean waves --- Mathematical models --- -Ocean waves --- -532.593 --- 551.466 --- 626/627 --- Breakers --- Sea waves --- Surf --- Swell --- Oceanography --- Surface waves (Water) --- Hydrodynamics --- Waves --- Wind waves --- Billows. Shallow waves. Large waves. Theory of sea waves. Deep waves. Ground swell --- Sea waves and tides --- Hydraulic engineering and construction. Water, aquatic structures --- Mathematical models. --- 626/627 Hydraulic engineering and construction. Water, aquatic structures --- 551.466 Sea waves and tides --- 532.593 Billows. Shallow waves. Large waves. Theory of sea waves. Deep waves. Ground swell --- 532.593 --- Water waves - Mathematical models --- Ocean waves - Mathematical models