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The first and only book of its kind, 'Fur: A Sensitive History' looks at the impact of fur on society, politics, and, of course, fashion. This material has a long, complex, and rich history, culminating in recent and ongoing anti-fur debates. Jonathan Faiers discusses how fur--long praised for its warmth, softness, and connotation of status--became so controversial, at the center of campaigns against animal cruelty and the movement toward ethical fashion. At the same time, fake fur now faces a backlash of its own, given the environmental impact of its manufacture and its links to fast fashion. Divided into five sections--dedicated to hair, pelt, coat, skin, and fleece--the book surveys not only the politics of fur but also its centrality to western fashion, the tactile pleasure it gives, and its use in literature, art, and film. This thoughtfully reasoned, eloquently written and spectacularly illustrated examination of fur is both timely and essential, filling a gap in fashion scholarship and appealing to a broad audience.
Manufacturing technologies --- fashion [concept] --- costume [mode of fashion] --- fur [hair material] --- fur garments --- kostuumgeschiedenis --- Fur garments --- Fur trade --- Fur --- History --- Social aspects --- Body covering (Anatomy) --- Hides and skins --- Furriers --- Clothing trade --- Trapping --- Fur coats --- Furriery --- Furs (Clothing) --- Clothing and dress --- fashion [culture-related concept]
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Mode --- Costume --- Fashion in motion pictures. --- Au cinéma. --- Aspect symbolique. --- Symbolic aspects.
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Luxury --- Culture --- Consumption (Economics) --- Culture. --- Luxury. --- Consumer demand --- Consumer spending --- Consumerism --- Spending, Consumer --- Demand (Economic theory) --- Cultural sociology --- Sociology of culture --- Civilization --- Popular culture --- Economics --- Wealth --- Cost and standard of living --- Leisure class --- History --- Social aspects
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Color speaks a powerful cultural language, conveying political, sexual, and economic messages that, throughout history, have revealed how we relate to ourselves and our world. This ground-breaking compilation is the first to investigate how color in fashionable and ceremonial dress has played a significant social role, indicating acceptance and exclusion, convention and subversion. From the use of white in pioneering feminism to the penchant for black in post-war France, and from mystical scarlet broadcloth to the horrors of arsenic-laden green fashion, this publication demonstrates that color in dress is as mutable, nuanced, and varied as color itself. Divided into four thematic parts - solidarity, power, innovation, and desire - each section highlights the often violent, emotional histories of color in dress across geographical, temporal and cultural boundaries. Underlying today's relaxed attitude to color lies a chromatic complexity that speaks of wars, migrations and economics. While acknowledging the importance that technology has played in the development of new dyes, the chapters explore color as a catalyst for technical innovation that continues to inspire designers, artists, and performers. Bringing together cutting-edge contributions from leading scholars, it is essential reading for academics of fashion, textiles, design, cultural studies and art history.
Fashion --- Colors --- Colours --- Color --- Style in dress --- Clothing and dress --- Philosophy. --- Psychological aspects.
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