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Book
Breaking and dissipation of ocean surface waves
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ISBN: 9780511736162 9781107001589 9781139100908 1139100904 9786613341808 6613341800 9781139101561 1139101560 0511736169 1139099558 9781139099554 1107001587 1107226619 9781107226616 1283341808 9781283341806 1139103369 9781139103367 113909887X Year: 2011 Publisher: Cambridge : Cambridge University Press,

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Abstract

Wave breaking represents one of the most interesting and challenging problems for fluid mechanics and physical oceanography. Over the last 15 years our understanding has undergone a dramatic leap forward, and wave breaking has emerged as a process whose physics is clarified and quantified. Ocean wave breaking plays the primary role in the air-sea exchange of momentum, mass and heat, and it is of significant importance for ocean remote sensing, coastal and ocean engineering, navigation and other practical applications. This book outlines the state of the art in our understanding of wave breaking and presents the main outstanding problems. It is a valuable resource for anyone interested in this topic: researchers, modellers, forecasters, engineers and graduate students in physical oceanography, meteorology and ocean engineering.

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