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2019 (2)

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Book
Getting what we need ourselves : how food has shaped African American life
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ISBN: 1538125250 Year: 2019 Publisher: Lanham : Rowman & Littlefield,

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Abstract

Beginning with an examination of West African food traditions during the era of the transatlantic slave trade and ending with a discussion of black vegan activism in the twenty-first century, Getting What We Need Ourselves: How Food Has Shaped African American Life tells a multi-faceted food story that goes beyond the well-known narrative of southern-derived “soul food” as the predominant form of black food expression. While this book considers the provenance and ongoing cultural resonance of emblematic foods such as greens and cornbread, it also examines the experiences of African Americans who never embraced such foods or who rejected them in search of new tastes and new symbols that were less directly tied to the past of plantation slavery. This book tells the story of generations of cooks and eaters who worked to create food habits that they variously considered sophisticated, economical, distinctly black, all-American, ethical, and healthful in the name of benefiting the black community. Significantly, it also chronicles the enduring struggle of impoverished eaters who worried far more about having enough to eat than about what particular food filled their plates. Finally, it considers the experiences of culinary laborers, whether enslaved, poorly paid domestic servants, tireless entrepreneurs, or food activists and intellectuals who used their knowledge and skills to feed and educate others, making a lasting imprint on American food culture in the process. Throughout African American history, food has both been used as a tool of empowerment and wielded as a weapon. Beginning during the era of slavery, African American food habits have often served as a powerful means of cementing the bonds of community through the creation of celebratory and affirming shared rituals. However, the system of white supremacy has frequently used food, or often the lack of it, as a means to attempt to control or subdue the black community. This study demonstrates that African American eaters who have worked to creative positive representations of black food practices have simultaneously had to confront an elaborate racist mythology about black culinary inferiority and difference. Keeping these tensions in mind, empty plates are as much a part of the history this book sets out to narrate as full ones, and positive characterizations of black foodways are consistently put into dialogue with distorted representations created by outsiders. Together these stories reveal a rich and complicated food history that defies simple stereotypes and generalizations.


Book
Recipes for respect
Author:
ISBN: 0820353655 9780820353654 9780820353661 0820353663 9780820353678 0820353671 Year: 2019 Publisher: Athens

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"Food studies, once trendy, has settled into the public arena. In the academy, scholarship on food and literary culture constitutes a growing river within literary and cultural studies, but writing on African American food and dining remains a small tributary. Recipes for Respect fills this lacuna, illuminating the role of foodways in African American culture. Beginning with the cooks in Uncle Tom's Cabin, if not before, and continuing nearly to the present day, black Americans have been unfairly stereotyped as uneducated culinary geniuses. Rafia Zafar addresses this disparity and highlights not only the long tradition of educated African Americans within our national gastronomic history but also the literary and entrepreneurial strategies for civil rights and respectability woven into the written records of dining, cooking, and serving. Whether revealed in cookbooks or fiction, memoirs or hotel-keeping manuals, agricultural extension bulletins or library collections, the knowledge of foodways supported black strategies for the maintenance of historical memory, the assertion of self-reliance, and the achievement of dignity and civil rights. If, to follow Mary Douglas's dictum, food is a field of action--that is, a venue for social intimacy, exchange, or aggression--African American writing about foodways constitutes an underappreciated intervention into the racialized social and intellectual spaces of the United States"--

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