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In a unitary way, this monograph deals with a wide range of subjects related to the mechanics of sea waves. The book highlights recent theoretical results on the dynamics of random wind-generated waves, on long-term wave statistics, and on beach planform evolution. A fresh approach is given to more traditional concepts. For example, new evidence from a recent series of small-scale field experiments is used to introduce some crucial topics like wave forces. Also, the book gives some worked examples for the design of offshore or coastal structures. An exciting subject dealt with in th
Ocean waves --- Wave mechanics --- Earth Sciences --- General and Others --- Wave mechanics. --- Ocean waves. --- Breakers --- Sea waves --- Surf --- Swell --- Oceanography --- Water waves --- Electrodynamics --- Matrix mechanics --- Mechanics --- Molecular dynamics --- Quantum statistics --- Quantum theory --- Waves
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