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The goals of wind wave research are relatively well defined: to be able to predict the wind wave field and its effect on the environment. That environment could be natural (beaches, the atmosphere etc.) or imposed by human endeavour (ports, harbours, coastal settlements etc.). Although the goals are similar, the specific requirements of these various fields differ considerably. This book attempts to summarise the current state of this knowledge and to place this understanding into a common frame work. It attempts to take a balanced approach between the pragmatic engineering view of requi
Ocean waves. --- Breakers --- Sea waves --- Surf --- Swell --- Oceanography --- Water waves --- Water waves. --- Surface waves (Water) --- Hydrodynamics --- Waves --- Wind waves
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This book addresses ocean wave processes and turbulence as they affect oceanography, meteorology, marine and coastal engineering. It will enable applied mathematicians, seafarers, and all others affected by these phenomena to predict and control wave effects on shipping safety, weather forecasting, offshore structures, sediment pollution, and ice dynamics in polar regions. The focus is on analytical and computational methods for solving equations of motion and studying non-linear aspects of waves and turbulence. Results included show how sudden gusts and winds over waves can modify the mechani
Ocean-atmosphere interaction --- Water waves --- Breakers --- Surface waves (Water) --- Hydrodynamics --- Waves --- Wind waves
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This book focuses on: (1) the physics of the fundamental dynamics of fluids and of semi-immersed Lagrangian solid bodies that are responding to wave-induced loads; (2) the scaling of dimensional equations and boundary value problems in order to determine a small dimensionless parameter ε that may be applied to linearize the equations and the boundary value problems so as to obtain a linear system; (3) the replacement of differential and integral calculus with algebraic equations that require only algebraic substitutions instead of differentiations and integrations; and (4) the importance of c
Fluid dynamics --- Ocean waves --- Water waves --- Breakers --- Sea waves --- Surf --- Swell --- Oceanography --- Mathematical models.
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The book is an extended and updated edition of the book published in 1996 under the same title (World Scientific, ISBN 9810216866). It contains a very comprehensive and extensive study on surface ocean waves induced by wind, earthquakes and possible landslides and asteroids impacts. The basic mathematical principles, physical description of the observed phenomena, practical forecasting techniques of the various wave parameters and extended application in ocean and coastal engineering, are discussed from the stochastic point of view.All chapters were completely rewritten and supplemented with m
Ocean waves. --- Surface waves. --- Breakers --- Sea waves --- Surf --- Swell --- Oceanography --- Water waves
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Wave breaking represents one of the most interesting and challenging problems for fluid mechanics and physical oceanography. Over the last 15 years our understanding has undergone a dramatic leap forward, and wave breaking has emerged as a process whose physics is clarified and quantified. Ocean wave breaking plays the primary role in the air-sea exchange of momentum, mass and heat, and it is of significant importance for ocean remote sensing, coastal and ocean engineering, navigation and other practical applications. This book outlines the state of the art in our understanding of wave breaking and presents the main outstanding problems. It is a valuable resource for anyone interested in this topic: researchers, modellers, forecasters, engineers and graduate students in physical oceanography, meteorology and ocean engineering.
Ocean waves --- Breakers --- Sea waves --- Surf --- Swell --- Oceanography --- Water waves --- Measurement. --- Simulation methods.
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Sitting on the beach on a sunny summer day, we enjoy the steady advance and retreat of the waves. In the water, enthusiastic waders jump and shriek with pleasure when a wave hits them. But where do these waves come from? How are they formed and why do they break on the shore?
Water waves. --- Ocean waves. --- Wave mechanics. --- Electrodynamics --- Matrix mechanics --- Mechanics --- Molecular dynamics --- Quantum statistics --- Quantum theory --- Waves --- Breakers --- Sea waves --- Surf --- Swell --- Oceanography --- Water waves --- Surface waves (Water) --- Hydrodynamics --- Wind waves --- Ocean waves --- Wave mechanics
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Within this monograph a comprehensive and systematic knowledge on shallow-water hydrodynamics is presented. A two-dimensional system of shallow-water equations is analyzed, including the mathematical and mechanical backgrounds, the properties of the system and its solution. Also featured is a new mathematical simulation of shallow-water flows by compressible plane flows of a special virtual perfect gas, as well as practical algorithms such as FDM, FEM, and FVM. Some of these algorithms have been utilized in solving the system, while others have been utilized in various applied fields. An empha
Hydrodynamics. --- Water waves --- Wave equation --- Mathematical models. --- Numerical solutions. --- Issue --- Hydrodynamics --- Mathematical models --- Numerical analysis --- Fluid dynamics
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Hurricanes are one of the most adverse aspects of the ocean environment, with the potential to cause a disastrous event for marine systems in the ocean. This is an invaluable reference for all involved in the field of naval, ocean and coastal engineering. The work clarifies hurricane generated sea conditions necessary for the design and operation of marine systems in a seaway, and provides information for the protection of near shore / onshore structures and the environment at the time of hurricane landing.Reveals Information vital for avoidance of disastrous events experienced by sh
Hurricanes --- Ocean waves. --- Ouragans --- Vagues --- Hurricanes. --- Earth Sciences --- General and Others --- Breakers --- Sea waves --- Surf --- Swell --- Oceanography --- Water waves --- Cyclones
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This book gives a self-contained and up-to-date account of mathematical results in the linear theory of water waves. The study of waves has many applications, including the prediction of behavior of floating bodies (ships, submarines, tension-leg platforms etc.), the calculation of wave-making resistance in naval architecture, and the description of wave patterns over bottom topography in geophysical hydrodynamics. The first section deals with time-harmonic waves. Three linear boundary value problems serve as the approximate mathematical models for these types of water waves. The next section, in turn, uses a plethora of mathematical techniques in the investigation of these three problems. Among the techniques used in the book the reader will find integral equations based on Green's functions, various inequalities between the kinetic and potential energy, and integral identities which are indispensable for proving the uniqueness theorems. For constructing examples of non-uniqueness usually referred to as 'trapped modes' the so-called inverse procedure is applied. Linear Water Waves will serve as an ideal reference for those working in fluid mechanics, applied mathematics, and engineering.
Wave-motion, Theory of. --- Water waves --- Breakers --- Surface waves (Water) --- Hydrodynamics --- Waves --- Wind waves --- Undulatory theory --- Mechanics --- Mathematics.
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