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In his forty-five-year career, William Wyler not only traversed the silent and the sound eras, but also connected classic Hollywood to 'new Hollywood.' The range of his films also spans a wide spectrum of genres: from westerns to adaptations of classic literature, from crime thrillers to rom-coms, and from controversial topics to musicals. His three Oscars for Best Director are an achievement surpassed only by John Ford. His life experience as one of Hollywood's early immigrant artists also speaks to the foreign influence on classic Hollywood. Yet despite his awards and commercial success, artistic recognition has mostly eluded Wyler. This volume attempts to analyse this Wyler paradox and also seeks to contextualise and theorise selections from Wyler's canon and his relationship to American cinematic history and American culture.
Film hairstyling. --- Wyler, William, --- Criticism and interpretation.
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Movie buffs and film scholars alike often overlook the importance of makeup artists, hair stylists, and costumers. With precious few but notable exceptions, creative workers in these fields have received little public recognition, even when their artistry goes on to inspire worldwide fashion trends. From the acclaimed Behind the Silver Screen series, Costume, Makeup, and Hair charts the development of these three crafts in the American film industry from the 1890s to the present. Each chapter examines a different era in film history, revealing how the arts of cinematic costume, makeup, and hair, have continually adapted to new conditions, making the transitions from stage to screen, from monochrome to color, and from analog to digital. Together, the book's contributors give us a remarkable glimpse into how these crafts foster creative collaboration and improvisation, often fashioning striking looks and ingenious effects out of limited materials. Costume, Makeup, and Hair not only considers these crafts in relation to a wide range of film genres, from sci-fi spectacles to period dramas, but also examines the role they have played in the larger marketplace for fashion and beauty products. Drawing on rare archival materials and lavish color illustrations, this volume provides readers with both a groundbreaking history of film industry labor and an appreciation of cinematic costume, makeup, and hairstyling as distinct art forms.
Film makeup. --- Costume. --- Hairdressing. --- Motion pictures --- Cinema --- Feature films --- Films --- Movies --- Moving-pictures --- Audio-visual materials --- Mass media --- Performing arts --- Hair-dressing --- Hairstyling --- Headdress --- Beauty, Personal --- Beauty culture --- Barbering --- Fancy dress --- Opera --- Stage costume --- Theater --- Theatrical costume --- Decorative arts --- Clothing and dress --- Film make-up --- Make-up, Film --- Makeup, Film --- Motion picture makeup --- Theatrical makeup --- Production and direction --- History. --- History and criticism --- Costume
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The impetus behind this Special Issue emerged from a quest to move beyondbinary thinking in the contemporary period about people who sell sexual services,including recent disputes about “sex trafficking vs. prostitution” and“criminalization vs. decriminalization”, to encourage theoretical and empiricalscholarship by exploring how sex work actually operates under different regulatoryregimes. The volume includes contributions from scholars of different socialsciences backgrounds based in five countries– New Zealand, the United Kingdom,Brazil, the United States and Canada. The article topics range widely,and both quantitative and qualitative research methods are showcased. The empiricalevidence presented adds to our current understanding of the complexityof this phenomenon of sex commerce/prostitution, which is found to be largelya problem of social inequality within and across capitalist societies. The authorscall for policies to address occupational and societal wide inequities faced by sexworkers across many countries.
decriminalisation --- employment --- human rights --- sex work --- exploitation --- money --- agency --- self-care --- gender --- transgender --- subjectivity --- end demand --- violence --- police --- criminalization --- indoor sex work --- stigma --- Canada --- technology --- mental health --- job attributes --- job insecurity --- service work --- hairstyling --- governmentality --- adolescents --- anthropology --- state --- excuses --- Amazon --- consent --- chemsex --- MSW --- men who have sex with men --- MSM --- qualitative --- Grounded Theory --- labour --- vulnerability --- objectification --- feminism --- sociology of labor --- Rio de Janeiro --- New Orleans --- n/a
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