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Dress is a key marker of difference. It is closely attached to the body, part of the daily routine, and an unavoidable means of communication. The clothes people wear tell stories about their allegiances and identities but also about their exclusion and stigmatization. They allow for the display of wealth and can mercilessly display poverty and indigence. Clothes also enable people to play with identities and affinities: for instance, individuals can claim higher social status via their clothes. In many ways, dress is thus open to manipulation by the wearer and misinterpretation by the observer. Authorities-whether religious or secular, local or regional-have always aimed at imposing order on this potential muddle. This is particularly true for the early modern era, when the world became ever more complex. In Europe, the composition of societies diversified with the emergence of new social groups and increasing migration and travel. Thanks to intensified long-distance trade and technological developments, new fashionable clothes and accessories entered the market. With the emergence of a consumer culture, it was now the case that not only the extremely wealthy could afford at least the occasional indulgence in luxury items and accessories. Over recent years, research has focused on a variety of areas related to dress and appearance in the context of early-modern political, socio-economic, and cultural transformations both within Europe and related to its entanglement with other parts of the world. Nevertheless, a significant compartmentalization in the research on dress and appearance remains: research is often organized around particular cities and territories, and much research is still framed by modern national boundaries. This special issue looks at dress and its perception in Europe from a transcultural perspective and highlights the many differences that clothing can express.

European history --- Early modern history: c 1450/1500 to c 1700 --- body --- dress --- clothing --- transculturality

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"Internationally, the case of early modern Sweden is noteworthy because the state building process transformed a locally dispersed and sparsely populated area into a strongly centralized absolute monarchy and European empire at the beginning of the 17th century. This anthology provides fresh insights into the state-building process in Sweden. During this transitional period, many far-reaching administrative reforms were carried out, and the Swedish state developed into a prime example of the early modern ‘powerstate’. The contributors approach Sweden’s rise to greatness from the point of view of personal agency. In early modern studies, agency has long remained in the shadow of the study of structures and institutions. This novel approach enables us to expose the difficulties, setbacks and false steps that the administration had to deal with. State building was a more diversified and personalized process than has previously been assumed. Numerous individuals were also crucially important actors in the process, and that development itself was not straightforward progression at the macro-level but was intertwined with lower-level actors.Each chapter in this volume employs partially different methods depending on the source material and subject. This means that both qualitative and quantitative material is combined, different ways of making sense of it (i.e. research traditions) are brought together and a multi-method design is used in analyzing source material. One of the central methods is the systematic use of previous biographical research. We want to give the individuals and their actions under discussion a background that reflects the contemporary structures of individual life cycles. With the existing biographical research, it is possible to create a comprehensive set of data that provides the general outlines of individual lives or the career tracks of various estates or social groups, and even to construct collective biographies of certain groups."

Sweden --- Early modern history: c 1450/1500 to c 1700 --- Society & culture: general --- Constitution: government & the state

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In this study of the Dutch East India Company the author uses the Company’s seventeenth century diplomatic interaction with the trading Sultanate of Macassar, on the southwestern tip of present day Sulawesi, as a case in cross cultural diplomacy. The author argues that the outlook of the Company’s agents both home and overseas was pragmatic, as was the nature of the solutions to the problems they faced. In doing so, the author challenges propositions of Company ethnocentric tunnel vision in its thinking about, and practice of overseas diplomacy. He also run counter with propositions that the communication between Company agents and their Asian friends and foes represented a miscommunication caused by structural cultural barriers. The study is based on analysis of the political language of the Company at the respective levels of operation.

Early modern history: c 1450/1500 to c 1700 --- makasser --- dutch east india company --- diplomacy --- voc --- Buginese people --- Cornelis Speelman --- Maluku Islands --- South Sulawesi

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A conqueror does not only use the power of weapons and techniques. He also imports and imposes a system of norms, beliefs and forms of artistic expression in order to establish a political project that he considers legitimate. Situated on the edge of cultural and art history, this study aims to open up new perspectives on artistic creation during the Baroque period in Latin America. Lorsqu’un conquérant conscient de sa supériorité colonise un territoire, il ne se sert pas seulement de la puissance des armes et des techniques. Il importe et impose aussi un système de normes, de croyances et des formes d’expression artistique pour asseoir un projet politique qui lui semble d’entrée de jeu légitime. Située aux confins de l’histoire culturelle et de l’histoire des arts, cette étude s’efforce d’ouvrir de nouvelles perspectives sur la création artistique à l’époque baroque dans une Amérique Latine en voie de colonisation par les Européens, en analysant plus particulièrement le contexte d’apparition du syncrétisme religieux. À partir de l’étude minutieuse d’une sélection d’œuvres produites entre le xvie et le xviiie siècle dans la région andine (Pérou, Bolivie, Colombie, Équateur) et au Mexique, dans des domaines aussi divers que la gravure, la peinture, la sculpture ou encore l’architecture, il s’agit de montrer comment l’art du colonisateur intervient comme une instance productrice de normes et de jugements de valeur dans l’espace ibéro-­américain indigène. Dans l’Amérique coloniale, le syncrétisme dont témoigne l’art des premiers « créoles », autrement dit l’assimilation de nouveaux codes et leur amalgame avec le substrat culturel existant, encourage la négation de l’ancienne culture tout en procédant au recyclage d’anciens codes pour donner naissance à des croyances et des formes artistiques nouvelles, un métissage dont les conséquences, à la fois positives et négatives, se manifestent jusque de nos jours.

History of the Americas --- Early modern history: c 1450/1500 to c 1700 --- Colonialism & imperialism --- Art of indigenous peoples --- Colonial art --- Latin America --- Evangelization --- Acculturation --- Baroque

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What is 'typically' habsburgish about the network of cities that were under the rule of the imperial dynasty for several centuries? As a place of artistic and intellectual production, as an economic hub, as a decision-making centre, the limited space of the city interacted with the empire. The contributions brought together in this book study the influences and exchanges (economic relations, political culture, artistic productions) that shaped the territories governed by the Habsburgs in Spain, Italy, the Netherlands, Hungary, Austria and America, from the modern era to the contemporary period. The traces of these interactions testify of the unique role played by urban cooperation in the development of a composite monarchy. Qu’y a-t-il de « typiquement » habsbourgeois dans le réseau des villes placées plusieurs siècles durant sous la domination de la dynastie impériale ? Lieu de production artistique et intellectuelle, cœur économique, centre décisionnel, l’espace limité de la ville agit en interaction avec l’empire. Les contributions rassemblées ici étudient les influences et les échanges (relations économiques, culture politique, productions artistiques) qui ont façonné les territoires gouvernés par les Habsbourg en Espagne, en Italie, aux Pays-Bas, en Hongrie, en Autriche et en Amérique, de l’époque moderne à l’époque contemporaine. Les traces de ces interactions témoignent du rôle exceptionnel qu’a joué la coopération urbaine dans le fonctionnement d’une monarchie composite. Was ist ""typisch"" habsburgisch an dem Netzwerk von Städten, die mehrere Jahrhunderte lang unter der Herrschaft der kaiserlichen Dynastie standen? Als Ort der künstlerischen und intellektuellen Produktion, als wirtschaftliches Herz und als Entscheidungszentrum agierte der begrenzte Raum der Stadt in Wechselwirkung mit dem Reich. Die hier versammelten Beiträge untersuchen die Einflüsse und den Austausch (wirtschaftliche Beziehungen, politische Kultur, künstlerische Produktionen), die die von den Habsburgern regierten Gebiete in Spanien, Italien, den Niederlanden, Ungarn, Österreich und Amerika von der Neuzeit bis in die Gegenwart prägten. Die Spuren dieser Interaktionen zeugen von der außergewöhnlichen Rolle, die die städtische Zusammenarbeit für das Funktionieren einer zusammengesetzten Monarchie spielte.

Villes. --- Histoire --- Habsbourg (dynastie) --- Europe du Centre-Est. --- Autriche-Hongrie --- Histoire. --- European history --- Early modern history: c 1450/1500 to c 1700 --- History of ideas --- Habsburg; Holy Roman Empire; European history; History of cities; East Central Europe; Austria-Hungary