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Mountaineers

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Pourquoi les grands alpinistes se détournent-ils de l’Everest ? Pourquoi refusent-ils l’oxygène artificiel sur certains sommets himalayens ? Pourquoi risquent-ils leur vie pour une ascension nouvelle ? Mais aussi, pourquoi sont-ils en majorité des hommes, qui plus est, des hommes longtemps issus des élites sociales ? Théâtre de drames, pourvoyeur de héros, objet de polémiques, l’alpinisme de haut niveau fascine. Dans les discours qui l’entourent ressurgissent les mêmes images : celles d’une pratique grande et noble, qu’on ne saurait assimiler à un simple sport, dont les protagonistes dévoués corps et âme, sont prêts à se sacrifier pour une ascension inédite. À condition, cependant, qu’elle soit réalisée dans le bon esprit, car dans le grand alpinisme, il faut parvenir au sommet sans tricher, dans le respect d’une éthique stricte. C’est cet esprit de l’alpinisme, synonyme d’excellence, que l’ouvrage interroge à travers une enquête originale, à la fois historique et sociologique. Mettant à profit des matériaux inédits, il emmène le lecteur des origines de l’alpinisme dans la grande bourgeoisie anglaise du XIXe siècle, jusqu’au début du XXIe siècle. L’esprit de l’alpinisme, principe éthique et esprit de corps, s’inscrit dans des hiérarchies et des rapports de domination de classe et de genre, qui distinguent les élites des masses, les alpinistes des guides, les hommes des femmes. L’ouvrage dévoile comment, par-delà la diffusion, la démocratisation et la féminisation de l’alpinisme, son esprit, codifié il y a plus de cent cinquante ans par une petite élite masculine britannique, continue d’en refléter aujourd’hui les idéologies, au Royaume-Uni mais aussi en France. Ouvrage destiné à un large public, il intéressera, au-delà des universitaires et des amateurs d’alpinisme, toutes celles et ceux qui s’interrogent sur la manière dont des hiérarchies sociales et genrées se construisent et se maintiennent. Why do great mountaineers turn away from Everest? Why do they reject…

Mountaineering --- Mountaineers --- Masculinity in sports --- Social aspects --- History. --- History --- Sociology --- excellence --- élite --- alpinisme --- domination --- genre --- elite --- mountaineering --- gender

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Never has a mountain occupied the German imagination longer and more thoroughly than Nanga Parbat (8,125m), the world's ninth-highest peak, located in the extreme western part of the Himalaya chain inpresent-day Pakistan. Repeatedly referred to in the 1930s as the German "mountain of destiny," over a period of roughly two decades from 1932 to 1953 Nanga Parbat became not only the destination of six German mountaineering expeditions, but also the quintessential German "mountain of the mind" onto whose slopes German mountaineers, mountaineering officials, politicians, writers, and filmmakers projected some of the most pressing social, political, and cultural concerns of their times. This book is a detailed study of that process: of the initial motivations of post-World War I mountaineers for attempting to scale one of the tallest mountains in the world, of the appropriation of this epic mountaineering challenge by National Socialism, of the reappropriation of the Nanga Parbat project during the early years of the German Federal Republic. And most important - since to date such an approach is almost completely absent from existing studies of Himalaya mountaineering of this era - it is a study of the means and mechanisms, the texts and contexts employed for communicating these high-altitude mountaineering exploits to the German public and thereby inscribing Nanga Parbat into the German imagination.

Harald Höbusch is Associate Professor of German and Associate Chair of the Department of Modern and Classical Languages, Literatures and Cultures at the University of Kentucky.

Mountaineering --- Mountaineers --- Climbers, Mountain --- Mountain climbers --- Rock climbers --- Athletes --- Climbing mountains --- Mountain climbing --- Hiking --- Outdoor life --- History --- Nanga Parbat (Pakistan) --- Diamir (Pakistan) --- Diyamir (Pakistan) --- Nanga Parbat (India) --- Nangaparbat Peak (Pakistan) --- Himalaya Mountains --- German geography. --- German studies. --- Great War. --- Modern and Classical Languages. --- World War I. --- World War II. --- capitalism. --- democracy. --- dictatorship. --- history of Germany. --- mountains. --- socialism. --- twentieth century Germany.

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581.6 --- Ethnobotany --- -Ethnobotany --- -Mountain people --- -581.9 <593> --- Hill people --- Hillbillies --- Mountaineers (Ethnology) --- Ethnology --- Indigenous peoples --- Ethnobiology --- Plants --- Human-plant relationships --- Applied botany. Use of plants. Technobotany. Economic botany --- Geographic botany. Plant geography (phytogeography). Floras. Geographic distribution of plants--Thailand --- Thailand, Northern --- -Golden Triangle (Southeastern Asia) --- -Chin-san-chiao (Southeast Asia) --- Golden Triangle (Southeastern Asia) --- Jin San Jiao (Southeast Asia) --- Jinsanjiao (Southeast Asia) --- Triangle d'Or (Southeast Asia) --- North Thailand --- Northern Thailand --- Thailand, North --- Social life and customs --- Mountain people --- ETH Ethnobotany & Economic botany --- Thailand --- ethnobotany & economic botany --- plants and man --- -Social life and customs --- 581.9 <593> Geographic botany. Plant geography (phytogeography). Floras. Geographic distribution of plants--Thailand --- 581.6 Applied botany. Use of plants. Technobotany. Economic botany --- 581.9 <593> --- Chin-san-chiao (Southeast Asia) --- Social life and customs.