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"Fashion Game Changers traces radical innovations in Western fashion design from the beginning of the 20th century to the present. Challenging the traditional silhouettes of their day, fashion designers such as Madeleine Vionnet and Cristóbal Balenciaga began to liberate the female body from the close-fitting hourglass forms which dominated European and American fashion, instead enveloping bodies in more autonomous garments which often took inspiration from beyond the West. As the century progressed, new generations of avant-garde designers from Rei Kawakubo to Martin Margiela further developed the ideas instigated by their predecessors to defy established notions of femininity in dress, creating space between body and garment. This way, a new relationship between body and dress emerged for the 21st century. With over 200 color images and commentaries from an international range of leading fashion curators and historians, this beautifully illustrated book showcases some of the most revolutionary silhouettes and innovative designs of over 100 years of fashion."--

Fashion --- ART / History / General. --- DESIGN / Fashion. --- Style in dress --- Clothing and dress --- History

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Historische Aneignungen und ästhetische Konstruktionen außereuropäischer Kulturen innerhalb der westlichen Kunst- und Kulturgeschichte sind relativ gut erforscht. Untersuchungen zu den mannigfaltigen Westprojektionen und -reflexionen bis in die Gegenwart stellen jedoch ein Forschungsdesiderat dar. Die Beiträger*innen des Bandes fragen: Unter welchen historischen und geopolitischen Bedingungen formt sich ein okzidentales Kultur- und Kunstbewusstsein aus? Welche Ab- und Ausgrenzungsmechanismen spielen dabei eine Rolle? Im Zentrum der Analyse steht eine kritische Okzidentalismusreflexion und deren Beeinflussung durch die geopolitische Deplatzierung und Zersplitterung des Westens.

Aesthetics. --- Appropriation Strategies. --- Art History. --- Art. --- Cultural History. --- Culture. --- Eurocentrism. --- Exclusion. --- Fine Arts. --- Interculturalism. --- Orientalism. --- Postcolonialism. --- ART / History / General.

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Film archives are fast spreading around the world, and with them issues surrounding archival digitisation, artistic appropriation, and academic reinterpretation of film material that demand scholarly attention. Exploring Past Images in a Digital Age: Reinventing the Archive aims to fill this demand with a thought-provoking collection of original articles contributed by renowned scholars, archivists, and artists. It urges the reader to "forget" standard ways of thinking about film archives and come to grips with the challenges of analysing and recontextualising an area in transit from the analogue to the digital. The book not only throws light on unexplored issues related to film archives but also introduces unconventional approaches and alternative sources for scholarly research and a vast range of artistic possibilities.

Arts. --- Film archives. --- Motion picture film collections. --- ART / History / General. --- Film Archive, Film History and Historiography, Digital Archiving, Digital Humanities, Memory.

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The earliest painting by Rembrandt whose owner is documented depicts the prophet Balaam, on his way to blessing Israel. The man who bought it was a Sephardi Jew in the service of Cardinal Richelieu of France. The first known buyer of an etching plate by Rembrandt, depicting Abraham Dismissing Hagar and Ishmael, was a Sephardi Jew of Amsterdam. Seen through their eyes, Rembrandt was the creator of images with a special meaning to Jews. They have been followed through the centuries by Jewish collectors, Jewish art historians, Jewish artists who saw their own deepest concerns modelled in his art and life, and even prominent rabbis, one of whom said that Rembrandt was a Tzadik, a holy man blessed by God. This book is the first study in depth of the potent bond between Rembrandt and Jews, from his time to ours, a bond that has penetrated the image of the artist and the people alike.

Jewish religion --- Art --- History of civilization --- influence --- Judaism --- Jood [volk] --- receptiegeschiedenis --- joodse kunst --- Rembrandt --- ART / History / General. --- Rembrandt, Jewish artists, Jewish museums, art collectors, Russian museums.

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Product design criticism operates at the very brink of the landfill site, salvaging some products with praise but consigning others to its depths through condemnation or indifference. When a designed product's usefulness is past, the public happily discards it to make room for the next new thing. Criticism rarely deals with how a product might be used, or not used, over time; it is more likely to play the enabler, encouraging our addiction to consumption. With Sifting the Trash, Alice Twemlow offers an especially timely reexamination of the history of product design criticism through the metaphors and actualities of the product as imminent junk and the consumer as junkie. Twemlow explores five key moments over the past sixty years of product design criticism. From the mid-1950s through the 1960s, for example, critics including Reyner Banham, Deborah Allen, and Richard Hamilton wrote about the ways people actually used design, and invented a new kind of criticism. At the 1970 International Design Conference in Aspen, environmental activists protested the design establishment's lack of political engagement. In the 1980s, left-leaning cultural critics introduced ideology to British design criticism. In the 1990s, dueling London exhibits offered alternative views of contemporary design. And in the early 2000s, professional critics were challenged by energetic design bloggers. Through the years, Twemlow shows, critics either sifted the trash and assigned value or attempted to detect, diagnose, and treat the sickness of a consumer society.

Product design --- Design --- Creation (Literary, artistic, etc.) --- Commercial products --- New products --- Industrial design --- Social aspects. --- Public opinion. --- Design and construction --- DESIGN/Graphic Design --- ARTS/Art History/General --- Aesthetics --- Product strategy --- design [discipline] --- criticism