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The goals of wind wave research are relatively well defined: to be able to predict the wind wave field and its effect on the environment. That environment could be natural (beaches, the atmosphere etc.) or imposed by human endeavour (ports, harbours, coastal settlements etc.). Although the goals are similar, the specific requirements of these various fields differ considerably. This book attempts to summarise the current state of this knowledge and to place this understanding into a common frame work. It attempts to take a balanced approach between the pragmatic engineering view of requi

Ocean waves. --- Breakers --- Sea waves --- Surf --- Swell --- Oceanography --- Water waves --- Water waves. --- Surface waves (Water) --- Hydrodynamics --- Waves --- Wind waves

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This book focuses on: (1) the physics of the fundamental dynamics of fluids and of semi-immersed Lagrangian solid bodies that are responding to wave-induced loads; (2) the scaling of dimensional equations and boundary value problems in order to determine a small dimensionless parameter ε that may be applied to linearize the equations and the boundary value problems so as to obtain a linear system; (3) the replacement of differential and integral calculus with algebraic equations that require only algebraic substitutions instead of differentiations and integrations; and (4) the importance of c

Fluid dynamics --- Ocean waves --- Water waves --- Breakers --- Sea waves --- Surf --- Swell --- Oceanography --- Mathematical models.

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Wave breaking represents one of the most interesting and challenging problems for fluid mechanics and physical oceanography. Over the last 15 years our understanding has undergone a dramatic leap forward, and wave breaking has emerged as a process whose physics is clarified and quantified. Ocean wave breaking plays the primary role in the air-sea exchange of momentum, mass and heat, and it is of significant importance for ocean remote sensing, coastal and ocean engineering, navigation and other practical applications. This book outlines the state of the art in our understanding of wave breaking and presents the main outstanding problems. It is a valuable resource for anyone interested in this topic: researchers, modellers, forecasters, engineers and graduate students in physical oceanography, meteorology and ocean engineering.

Ocean waves --- Breakers --- Sea waves --- Surf --- Swell --- Oceanography --- Water waves --- Measurement. --- Simulation methods.

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Within this monograph a comprehensive and systematic knowledge on shallow-water hydrodynamics is presented. A two-dimensional system of shallow-water equations is analyzed, including the mathematical and mechanical backgrounds, the properties of the system and its solution. Also featured is a new mathematical simulation of shallow-water flows by compressible plane flows of a special virtual perfect gas, as well as practical algorithms such as FDM, FEM, and FVM. Some of these algorithms have been utilized in solving the system, while others have been utilized in various applied fields. An empha

Hydrodynamics. --- Water waves --- Wave equation --- Mathematical models. --- Numerical solutions. --- Issue --- Hydrodynamics --- Mathematical models --- Numerical analysis --- Fluid dynamics

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This book gives a self-contained and up-to-date account of mathematical results in the linear theory of water waves. The study of waves has many applications, including the prediction of behavior of floating bodies (ships, submarines, tension-leg platforms etc.), the calculation of wave-making resistance in naval architecture, and the description of wave patterns over bottom topography in geophysical hydrodynamics. The first section deals with time-harmonic waves. Three linear boundary value problems serve as the approximate mathematical models for these types of water waves. The next section, in turn, uses a plethora of mathematical techniques in the investigation of these three problems. Among the techniques used in the book the reader will find integral equations based on Green's functions, various inequalities between the kinetic and potential energy, and integral identities which are indispensable for proving the uniqueness theorems. For constructing examples of non-uniqueness usually referred to as 'trapped modes' the so-called inverse procedure is applied. Linear Water Waves will serve as an ideal reference for those working in fluid mechanics, applied mathematics, and engineering.

Wave-motion, Theory of. --- Water waves --- Breakers --- Surface waves (Water) --- Hydrodynamics --- Waves --- Wind waves --- Undulatory theory --- Mechanics --- Mathematics.