TY - BOOK ID - 7069140 TI - Waves in oceanic and coastal waters PY - 2007 SN - 9780521860284 0521860288 9780511618536 9780521129954 9780511267826 0511267827 0511618530 9780511270215 0511270216 051126965X 9780511269653 0511267177 9780511267178 0511268459 9780511268458 0511269129 9780511269127 0511320604 9780511320606 9786610750566 6610750564 1107086361 9781107086364 1107167582 9781107167582 1280750561 9781280750564 0521129958 PB - Cambridge Cambridge University Press DB - UniCat KW - Water waves KW - Ocean waves KW - Mathematical models KW - -Ocean waves KW - -532.593 KW - 551.466 KW - 626/627 KW - Breakers KW - Sea waves KW - Surf KW - Swell KW - Oceanography KW - Surface waves (Water) KW - Hydrodynamics KW - Waves KW - Wind waves KW - Billows. Shallow waves. Large waves. Theory of sea waves. Deep waves. Ground swell KW - Sea waves and tides KW - Hydraulic engineering and construction. Water, aquatic structures KW - Mathematical models. KW - 626/627 Hydraulic engineering and construction. Water, aquatic structures KW - 551.466 Sea waves and tides KW - 532.593 Billows. Shallow waves. Large waves. Theory of sea waves. Deep waves. Ground swell KW - 532.593 KW - Water waves - Mathematical models KW - Ocean waves - Mathematical models UR - https://www.unicat.be/uniCat?func=search&query=sysid:7069140 AB - Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters describes the observation, analysis and prediction of wind-generated waves in the open ocean, in shelf seas, and in coastal regions with islands, channels, tidal flats and inlets, estuaries, fjords and lagoons. Most of this richly illustrated book is devoted to the physical aspects of waves. After introducing observation techniques for waves, both at sea and from space, the book defines the parameters that characterise waves. Using basic statistical and physical concepts, the author discusses the prediction of waves in oceanic and coastal waters, first in terms of generalised observations, and then in terms of the more theoretical framework of the spectral energy balance. He gives the results of established theories and also the direction in which research is developing. The book ends with a description of SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore), the preferred computer model of the engineering community for predicting waves in coastal waters. ER -